HVAC, Plumbing & Electrical Glossary | Degree Heating & Cooling

Essential Definitions for Home Comfort Systems

Connecticut’s climate presents unique challenges and opportunities for home comfort. From the sweltering humidity of summer to the biting cold of winter, your HVAC system plays a critical role in maintaining a comfortable and healthy indoor environment. Here’s a glossary of terms you might hear from one of our staff of technicians or support team members to help you understand the terminology they might use.

Core Concepts (HVAC)

HVAC System (Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning): This comprehensive system is the heart of your home’s indoor climate control. It’s designed to regulate not just temperature, but also humidity levels and air quality. For Connecticut homeowners, a robust and efficient HVAC system is essential to combat the extremes of our hot, humid summers and cold, snowy winters, ensuring year-round comfort and energy efficiency.
BTU (British Thermal Unit): A fundamental unit of heat energy, a BTU represents the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. When it comes to HVAC, BTU ratings indicate a system’s heating or cooling capacity. Connecticut homeowners often need systems with higher BTU ratings to adequately handle the significant temperature swings and heavy heating/cooling demands imposed by our diverse climate. Getting your BTU sizing correct will provide both comfort and efficiency.
SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio): This metric measures the overall cooling efficiency of air conditioners and heat pumps over an entire cooling season. A higher SEER rating indicates greater energy efficiency. For Connecticut homeowners, especially with our increasingly warm summers, investing in high-SEER systems (typically 15 SEER or higher) is strongly recommended not only to meet state energy regulations but also to achieve substantial energy savings on your utility bills during the long cooling season.
EER (Energy Efficiency Ratio): Unlike SEER, EER measures cooling efficiency under specific, peak operating conditions (95°F outdoor temperature, 80°F indoor temperature, and 50% relative humidity). This rating is particularly crucial for Connecticut homeowners, as it reflects how efficiently your system will perform during the most demanding periods in July and August, when your air conditioner will be working its hardest. A high EER ensures optimal performance when you need it most.
HSPF (Heating Seasonal Performance Factor): This rating specifically applies to heat pumps and measures their overall heating efficiency over an entire heating season. Heat pumps are increasingly popular in Connecticut homes due to their dual heating and cooling capabilities. A higher HSPF indicates a more efficient heat pump, which translates directly into lower heating costs during Connecticut’s long and cold winters, making them an excellent choice for year-round comfort and energy savings.
Thermostat: The control center of your HVAC system, allowing you to set and maintain desired indoor temperatures. For Connecticut homeowners, smart thermostats are an invaluable tool. These advanced devices learn your preferences, allow for remote control via smartphone, and can optimize heating and cooling schedules based on weather patterns and occupancy. This intelligent management of your HVAC system can lead to significant energy cost savings during Connecticut’s unpredictable seasonal shifts.
Dehumidification: This refers to the process of removing excess moisture from the air. While often an overlooked aspect of comfort, dehumidification is particularly important during Connecticut’s notoriously humid summers. High indoor humidity not only makes you feel warmer than the actual temperature but also creates an ideal environment for mold growth and can damage your home’s structure. Effective dehumidification prevents these issues, improving comfort and indoor air quality.
AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency): This rating measures how efficiently a furnace converts fuel (natural gas, propane, or oil) into usable heat over an entire heating season. For Connecticut’s cold winters, furnaces with high AFUE ratings (typically 90% or higher, with high-efficiency models reaching 95%+ or even 98%) are highly recommended. A higher AFUE directly translates to less wasted fuel and significantly reduced heating costs, providing substantial savings over the lifespan of the furnace.

System Components (HVAC)

Air Conditioner: A critical component for cooling your home during Connecticut’s hot and often oppressive summers. Modern air conditioners utilize a refrigerant cycle to absorb heat from your indoor air and release it outdoors. When selecting an air conditioner in Connecticut, prioritize energy-efficient models with high SEER and EER ratings to meet state energy standards and minimize your electricity consumption during peak cooling periods.
Air Balance: This refers to the proper distribution of conditioned air throughout your home. A well-balanced HVAC system ensures that each room receives the appropriate amount of heating or cooling, preventing hot or cold spots. This is particularly crucial for homes with varying insulation levels, which are commonly found in Connecticut’s diverse housing, including many historic and older residences. Proper air balance maximizes comfort and efficiency.
Air Ducts: These are the pathways, typically made of sheet metal or fiberglass, that transport conditioned air from your HVAC unit to various rooms and return air back to the unit. In Connecticut’s variable climate, properly sealed and insulated ducts (with an insulation value of R8 or higher) are absolutely critical for energy efficiency. Leaky or uninsulated ducts can lead to significant heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer, wasting energy and compromising comfort.
Refrigerant: The chemical substance used in air conditioners and heat pumps to absorb and release heat during the cooling and heating cycles. Connecticut, in alignment with federal guidelines, is actively phasing out older, ozone-depleting refrigerants like R-22 in favor of more environmentally friendly alternatives such as R-410a. If your system still uses R-22, be aware of increasing costs for replenishment and consider upgrading to a newer, more environmentally compliant system.
Heat Pump: An incredibly versatile HVAC system that provides both heating and cooling by transferring heat rather than generating it. In the summer, it moves heat out of your home; in the winter, it extracts heat from the outdoor air (even in cold temperatures) and transfers it indoors. Heat pumps are increasingly popular in Connecticut for year-round use due to their energy efficiency and ability to provide comfortable heating during our cold winters and efficient cooling during hot summers.
Boiler: A heating system that heats water to provide warmth through radiators, baseboard heaters, or radiant floor systems. Boilers are a common heating source in many older Connecticut homes. While traditional boilers can be less efficient, modern high-efficiency condensing boilers can significantly reduce heating costs and improve comfort by providing consistent, even heat, making them a viable upgrade for many Connecticut residences.
Furnace: A central heating system that heats air and distributes it throughout your home via a system of ducts. Furnaces are a very common heating solution in Connecticut, especially in homes without existing boiler systems. They typically operate by burning natural gas, propane, or fuel oil, or by using electricity. Modern high-efficiency furnaces (often with an AFUE rating of 90% or higher) are designed to maximize heat output while minimizing fuel consumption, making them a wise investment for Connecticut homeowners looking to reduce their winter heating bills.
Heat Exchanger: A crucial component within a furnace where combustion gases transfer their heat to the circulating air without mixing. This is a critical safety component, as it prevents harmful combustion byproducts from entering your home’s air supply. In Connecticut, regular inspection of the heat exchanger by a qualified HVAC technician is essential, particularly for older furnaces, to ensure there are no cracks or leaks that could compromise indoor air quality and safety.
Blower Motor: The electric motor responsible for drawing air into the furnace, pushing it across the heat exchanger (or evaporator coil in an air conditioner), and then distributing the conditioned air through your home’s ductwork. A well-functioning blower motor is essential for proper air circulation and efficient heating and cooling. In Connecticut, a strong blower motor is particularly important to effectively circulate conditioned air throughout homes that may have more complex duct systems or multiple stories.
Whole-House Humidifier: An HVAC accessory that adds moisture to the air throughout your entire home. This is essential for Connecticut’s dry winters, when heating systems can significantly reduce indoor humidity levels. Low humidity can lead to static electricity, dry skin, respiratory issues, and can even damage wood furniture, flooring, and musical instruments. A whole-house humidifier helps maintain optimal indoor air quality and preserves your home’s integrity.

Air Quality (HVAC)

HEPA Filter (High-Efficiency Particulate Air Filter): A type of mechanical air filter that can trap at least 99.97% of airborne particles 0.3 micrometers in size. Recommended for homes in Connecticut to significantly improve indoor air quality, especially for families with allergies, asthma, or other respiratory sensitivities, by removing dust mites, pollen, pet dander, mold spores, and other airborne contaminants.
ERV (Energy Recovery Ventilator): An ERV is a ventilation system that introduces fresh outdoor air into your home while recovering energy from the outgoing stale air. This system helps maintain excellent indoor air quality by exchanging air without significant heat loss in winter or heat gain in summer. ERVs are particularly beneficial in Connecticut’s colder months, allowing for ventilation without compromising your home’s energy efficiency.
UV Light Systems (Ultraviolet Germicidal Irradiation): These systems use ultraviolet light to kill or inactivate airborne microorganisms such as bacteria, viruses, and mold spores as they pass through your HVAC system. Given Connecticut’s often humid climate, which can contribute to the proliferation of mold and other microbes, UV light systems can be an effective addition to your HVAC system to enhance indoor air quality and create a healthier living environment.

Additional Terms (HVAC)

Heat Load Calculation: A detailed assessment performed by an HVAC professional to determine the exact heating and cooling requirements for a specific home. This calculation considers various factors such as square footage, insulation levels, window types, local climate conditions (especially critical in Connecticut’s diverse weather), and air infiltration. For Connecticut’s diverse housing stock, precise heat load calculations are essential to ensure your HVAC system is properly sized for optimal efficiency and comfort, preventing issues like short cycling.
Smart Thermostat: An advanced programmable thermostat that offers features like Wi-Fi connectivity, remote control via smartphone apps, learning capabilities (to adapt to your preferences), and integration with home automation systems. Ideal for Connecticut homeowners, smart thermostats allow for granular control over your heating and cooling, optimize energy usage during seasonal transitions, and can lead to substantial energy savings during the often fluctuating utility bills.
Zoning: An HVAC system design that allows you to control the temperature independently in different areas or “zones” of your home. This is particularly useful in larger Connecticut homes with varying occupancy patterns or diverse heating/cooling needs (e.g., a finished basement vs. an upstairs bedroom). Zoning enhances comfort by allowing you to customize temperatures where and when needed, leading to significant energy efficiency by avoiding heating or cooling unoccupied areas.

Glossary of Plumbing Terms for Connecticut Homeowners

Understanding your home’s plumbing system is crucial for preventative maintenance and addressing common issues. This section covers key plumbing terms, emphasizing their importance for homeowners in Connecticut.

Core Concepts (Plumbing)

Water Main: The primary pipe that delivers fresh, potable water from the municipal supply line (or a private well) directly to your home. Knowing the location of your main shut-off valve on this line is important for Connecticut homeowners, as it allows you to quickly cut off water to your entire house in case of a burst pipe, major leak, or other plumbing emergency, minimizing potential water damage, especially during freezing winter conditions.
Drainage System: This comprises all the pipes and fixtures that carry wastewater away from your home to the municipal sewer system or a private septic system. Proper drainage is essential for hygiene and preventing backups. Connecticut homes, especially older ones, can sometimes experience issues with aging drainage pipes or tree root intrusion, making regular inspection important.
Water Pressure (PSI): Measured in Pounds per Square Inch (PSI), this indicates the force at which water flows through your pipes. Optimal water pressure in Connecticut homes typically ranges from 40 to 80 PSI. Low water pressure can be a sign of clogs, leaks, or mineral buildup, while excessively high pressure can stress your plumbing system, leading to leaks or fixture damage.
Fixture: This refers to any device connected to your plumbing system that delivers or disposes of water, such as sinks, toilets, showers, bathtubs, and outdoor spigots (hose bibs). The proper functioning and maintenance of fixtures are vital for daily convenience and water conservation in Connecticut households.
Trap (P-Trap/S-Trap): The “P” or “S” shaped section of pipe found directly beneath sinks and other drains. The trap’s crucial function is to hold a small amount of water, creating a seal that prevents unpleasant sewer gases from entering your home. In Connecticut, especially in older homes, traps can sometimes become clogged with hair or grease, requiring routine cleaning or snaking.

System Components (Plumbing)

Shut-Off Valve: A valve designed to stop water flow to a specific fixture (like a toilet or sink) or a section of your plumbing system. Knowing the location of individual shut-off valves for all major fixtures is a must for Connecticut homeowners, enabling you to isolate a leak without shutting down the entire house, which is particularly helpful during emergency repairs.
Water Heater (Tank-Type/Tankless): The appliance responsible for heating your home’s hot water supply. Tank-type water heaters store and heat a reserve of water, while tankless models heat water on demand. For Connecticut homeowners, especially during our cold winters, a reliable and efficient water heater is a necessity. Consider energy-efficient models or tankless options for long-term savings.
Backflow Preventer: A device installed in a plumbing system to prevent the unwanted reversal of water flow (backflow), which could allow contaminated water to enter the clean water supply. This is particularly important for outdoor spigots or irrigation systems in Connecticut to protect your family’s potable water from chemicals or other contaminants.
PEX Piping (Cross-linked Polyethylene): A flexible plastic tubing widely used in modern plumbing systems. PEX is resistant to corrosion and freezing, making it an excellent choice for new construction and renovations in Connecticut’s climate, as it can withstand minor temperature fluctuations better than rigid copper pipes, reducing the risk of burst pipes.
Anode Rod: A sacrificial metal rod found inside your water heater tank, typically made of magnesium, aluminum, or zinc. Its purpose is to corrode first, protecting the steel lining of the water heater tank from rust and extending its lifespan. Connecticut’s water quality can vary, and regularly checking and replacing the anode rod is a key part of water heater maintenance.

Common Issues and Troubleshooting (Plumbing)

Clogged Drain: A common plumbing problem caused by the accumulation of hair, grease, soap scum, or foreign objects in a drainpipe, leading to slow drainage or complete blockage. In Connecticut homes, kitchen drains often clog from food waste, while bathroom drains are frequently blocked by hair. Prompt attention can prevent more severe issues.
Leaky Pipes/Faucets: Any unintended dripping or seepage of water from pipes, fixtures, or connections. Leaks, even minor ones, can waste significant amounts of water, increase utility bills, and lead to costly water damage or mold growth, particularly in basements or behind walls in Connecticut homes. Addressing leaks quickly is paramount.
Running Toilet: Occurs when a toilet continues to run water into the bowl after flushing, often due to a faulty flapper valve or fill valve inside the tank. This is a common and wasteful issue in Connecticut homes, leading to unnecessarily high water bills. Most running toilet issues can be fixed with relatively simple DIY repairs.
Frozen Pipes: A significant risk in Connecticut during cold winter months, occurring when water inside pipes freezes and expands, potentially causing the pipes to burst. Pipes in unheated areas like crawl spaces, attics, or exterior walls are most vulnerable. Proper insulation and winterizing outdoor spigots are crucial preventative measures.
Water Hammer: A loud banging or thumping noise heard in the pipes, usually when a faucet is quickly turned off or an appliance like a washing machine stops filling. This is caused by the sudden stopping of water flow, creating a shockwave. While often benign, persistent water hammer can indicate underlying pressure issues or loose pipes that could lead to damage over time in Connecticut homes.
Sewer Line Back-up: A serious plumbing problem where wastewater backs up into your home’s drains, often due to a blockage or damage in the main sewer line. Tree roots, pipe corrosion, or foreign objects can cause blockages. For Connecticut homeowners, especially those with older homes, routine camera inspections of sewer lines can help prevent costly and unsanitary backups.

Glossary of Home Electrician Terms for Connecticut Homeowners

Understanding your home’s electrical system is vital for safety and efficient power usage. This section provides key electrical terms, with a focus on their relevance to homeowners in Connecticut.

Core Concepts (Electrical)

Circuit: A closed loop through which electricity flows from the electrical panel, through wires, to devices and appliances, and then back to the panel. Your home’s entire electrical system is comprised of multiple circuits, each designed to power a specific area or set of devices. In Connecticut, older homes may have fewer circuits, making them prone to overloads with modern electrical demands.
Circuit Breaker: A safety device located in your electrical panel that automatically “trips” (switches off) to interrupt the flow of electricity to a circuit when it detects an overload or a short circuit. This prevents overheating, potential fires, and damage to appliances. Familiarity with your circuit breaker panel is essential for all Connecticut homeowners for quick troubleshooting and safety.
Electrical Panel (Breaker Box/Service Panel): The main distribution hub for your home’s electricity, where power from the utility company enters and is then distributed to individual circuits via circuit breakers. Older homes in Connecticut might have outdated panels or fuse boxes that may need upgrading to safely accommodate modern power demands.
Voltage (Volts): The “pressure” or force of electricity that drives current through a circuit, measured in volts (V). Standard household outlets in Connecticut typically provide 120V for smaller appliances and lighting, while larger appliances like electric dryers or ovens require 240V.
Amperage (Amps): The “flow” or quantity of electrical current passing through a circuit, measured in amperes (A). Each circuit breaker has an amperage rating (e.g., 15-amp, 20-amp), indicating the maximum current it can safely handle. Overloading a circuit by drawing too many amps will cause the breaker to trip.
Wattage (Watts/Kilowatt-hours): Watts (W) measure the rate at which electrical energy is consumed by an appliance or device. Kilowatt-hours (kWh) are a unit of energy consumption (1 kWh = 1000 watts used for one hour) and are what your utility company in Connecticut uses to calculate your electricity bill. Understanding wattage helps you identify energy-hungry appliances.

System Components (Electrical)

Wiring: The network of insulated conductors (usually copper or aluminum) that carry electricity throughout your home. Different types of wiring exist (e.g., Romex, conduit, knob-and-tube). Many older Connecticut homes may still have outdated or hazardous wiring (like aluminum or knob-and-tube), which often requires replacement or upgrading to meet modern safety codes.
Outlet (Receptacle): A device connected to your home’s wiring that allows you to plug in and power electrical appliances and devices. Standard outlets have two or three prongs (the third being a ground). Modern homes in Connecticut require grounded outlets in most areas for safety.
GFCI Outlet (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter): A special type of outlet designed to rapidly detect imbalances in electrical current, indicating a “ground fault” (where electricity takes an unintended path, such as through a person). GFCIs immediately cut power to prevent electric shock. Building codes in Connecticut require GFCI outlets in areas near water, such as bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, and outdoors.
AFCI Breaker (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter): A type of circuit breaker designed to detect dangerous electrical arcs (sparks) that can occur in damaged wiring or faulty connections, which might not cause a regular breaker to trip. AFCIs protect against electrical fires. Modern building codes in Connecticut often mandate AFCI breakers for living areas and bedrooms.
Conduit: A protective tube or casing, typically metal or plastic, used to enclose and protect electrical wiring. Conduit is often used in exposed areas like basements, garages, or outdoors in Connecticut to shield wires from physical damage, moisture, and pests.
Grounding: A safety measure that provides a safe path for electricity to flow directly into the earth in the event of an electrical fault. Proper grounding prevents electrical shocks and helps protect appliances from damage during power surges. Many older Connecticut homes may have inadequate or non-existent grounding, requiring upgrades for enhanced safety.

Common Issues and Troubleshooting (Electrical)

Tripped Breaker: The most common electrical issue, occurring when a circuit breaker automatically switches off due to an overload (too many devices drawing power) or a short circuit. Connecticut homeowners frequently encounter tripped breakers when running multiple high-wattage appliances simultaneously. Understanding how to safely reset a breaker is essential.
Flickering Lights: Can indicate various issues, including loose connections in light fixtures or outlets, overloaded circuits, or issues with the incoming power supply. In older Connecticut homes, flickering lights might be a sign of aging or deteriorating wiring that warrants professional inspection.
Hot Outlets/Switches: An outlet or switch that feels warm to the touch can be a warning sign of an overloaded circuit, loose wiring, or a faulty device drawing excessive current. This poses a potential fire hazard. Connecticut homeowners should address hot electrical components immediately by turning off the associated breaker.
Outdated Wiring (Knob-and-Tube, Aluminum): Many older homes in Connecticut may still have these older wiring types. Knob-and-tube wiring (pre-1940s) lacks a grounding wire and can be a fire hazard due to brittle insulation. Aluminum wiring (1960s-1970s) can expand and contract, leading to loose connections and overheating. Professional assessment and often full rewiring are recommended for safety in these homes.
Ungrounded Outlets (Two-Prong): Outlets that lack a third, round hole for a ground wire. Common in older Connecticut homes, these outlets offer less protection against electrical shock and cannot safely accommodate modern three-prong appliances. Upgrading to grounded outlets or GFCI outlets is a key safety improvement.
Power Surges: Brief but intense spikes in electrical voltage that can damage sensitive electronics and appliances. While often caused by lightning or utility grid fluctuations, internal issues like large appliance cycling can also cause minor surges. For Connecticut homeowners, investing in whole-house surge protection can safeguard valuable electronics from these transient voltage spikes.

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